The winery was an uninspiring concrete building when I visited, apparently under an architectural makeover, and its machinery was being upgraded to fit lessee Sula’s standards. Sula is to use the property for five years, and the 2014 vintage was its first to be crushed here, with ambitious plans to grow from 500 to 800 tons during the 2015 vintage. Helped by the busy engineers and builders, the Sula team did achieve the 800-ton target.

The grapes are sourced from nearby Bijapur and Solapur districts. Sula works with the growers to ensure that their viticultural policy is observed. Price differentiation strategies provide the incentive for growers to produce higher quality fruit. In fact, the winemakers have the right to decline the grapes if they are not up to standard. Both growing areas are at least a two-hours’ drive away from the winery, so picking is between 6 and 10 a.m. If the fruit is delivered by midday, there is the reward of a better price.

Sula produces the entire range of brands from its sub-entry-level port and Dia to the carbonated Seco and varietal classic Sula wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet-Shiraz blend.

The location’s raison d'être is its relatively easy access to both competitively priced grapes and the three markets of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Maharashtra. It is indeed exciting to see expertise and capital transforming an otherwise ailing business.