Heritage Grape Winery
THE FACTS
THE STORY
Heritage Grape Winery (HGW) is a curious blend of past and future, while successfully quenching the thirst of present-day wine drinkers. Founder and managing director Reddy’s masterstroke was hiring industry veteran Mohan Rao, who brought with him 35 years of technical and marketing experience from Shaw Wallace, a Kolkata-headquartered manufacturer of Indian-made foreign liquor up until United Breweries (UB) acquired it in 2005 and merged it as a subsidiary in 2008.
With soft-spoken but highly driven Rao steering the ship, HGW has developed into a neatly organised and sizeable operation dominating both the Bangalore market and the rest of Karnataka with a 75 per-cent and a 65 per-cent share respectively. Its success hinges on two factors: the recognition of consumer needs and an uncompromising focus on core market niches. Such forward thinking and the refreshingly modern approach to the business of winegrowing allows HGW to economise on production costs and aggressive advertising of the brand, while also maintaining a healthy cash flow.
The nature of the business is such, however, that most of the production relies on Bangalore Blue, a non-vinifera variety, used for very modest-quality wines. It is completely alien to the palate of the regular wine drinker or any Western consumer, but it is the bread and butter of this business. Despite its foxy taste, newer or less experienced consumers love it for its excellent value. Bangalore Blue crops all year round with high yields, making the final product affordably cheap. With the addition of cane sugar, carbon dioxide or spirit, HGW offers three styles of Bangalore Blue.
With a thought to the future, Rao and his team are conducting an exciting experiment on one of their own plots, attempting to produce a simple, dry, hugely ripe and fruity table wine from Shiraz at Rs 200 (£ 2) a bottle. This would then offer a transition stage for consumers who wish to move up the ladder to still table wines made from the French varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Chenin Blanc, retailing at Rs 400 rupees a bottle.
THE ESTATE
South-west on the Bangalore–Mysore dual carriageway, once the peripheries of the city are crossed, the countryside turns green and lush. Only rolling hills intrude on the horizon. About 60 kilometres from Bangalore, close to the village of Channapattana, a sign on the left says ‘Wine Tour’, with the three letters of HGW appearing alongside, but in very small font, almost as though the winery wouldn’t mind if you missed the turn and could be left instead to enjoy the peace of the surrounding coconut groves and lush green.
The estate is small and the vineyard is even smaller. Only a third of the estate, or eight acres, is dedicated to grape growing. The rest of the grounds are occupied by the winery and a tourism centre, which comprises a restaurant and function venues that host group events, such as corporate functions and weddings, throughout the year on extensive verandas surrounded by attractively landscaped gardens.
The soil is dark brown and loamy I was told, even as my eyes perceived fire-red turf. The reddish colour is attributed to the effect of the sun. Two blocks of vines, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, are both trained on Y-shaped trellis to allow for even ripening, deeper colour with the increased exposure to the sun, and easy access for spraying. The Shiraz is undergoing an experiment with high yield, 15–20 tons per acre, aimed at bringing affordable dry table wine to the market.
The vinifera varieties of Chenin Blanc, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon crop twice a year, while Bangalore Blue, bought in from 800 acres, is harvested three times a year. Effectively the winery crushes 365 days a year. Some 200 tons of Bangalore Blue are used annually for the sweet red and sweet sparkling red wine.
The winery relies on Indian-made stainless-steel tanks that cost 60–80 per cent less then the imported ones, and the oak flavour is added to one of the wines only by means of chips. An interesting legal requirement is the separation of still and fortified wine production, which allows excise officers to visit and perform the fortification.
The streamlined and hygienic cellar delivers wines of consistent, if modest, quality that reflect Rao’s philosophy: minimising the time between tank and consumption remains key in a country of subtropical climate and underdeveloped wine-retail culture. Consequently, the wines I was served in late 2014 were vintage 2012 and in good condition.
THE WINES
THE LABELS
The table wines are sold under varietal labelling as part of the ‘French varieties’ range:
- Heritage Shiraz
- Heritage Cabernet Sauvignon
- Heritage Chenin Blanc
The Bangalore Blue-based wines include three labels:
- Heritage Red: the most widely sold sweet red
- Heritage 2000 Premium Red: purports to offer higher quality
- Twist: carbonated sweet red sold in beer bottles with a crown cap
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