Cumbum Valley Winery

THE FACTS

Location: Theni
State: Tamil Nadu
Founded: 2007
Major shareholders: R Ragu 
Total area: 400 acres
Area under vine: 70 acres
Production: 750,000 litres
Google map: click here

THE STORY

Its name may appear to be a way of seeking attention, but it was merely derived from the name of the valley in which the winery is located. Setting up the first, and so far only, winery in Tamil Nadu was no ordinary adventure, however. R Ragu, a successful businessman in Chennai in the fields of newspaper ink and industrial lubricants, showed remarkable determination and perseverance in pushing the state government for legislative changes facilitating the founding of the winery. The approval of the Tamil Nadu Wine (Manufacture) Rules, 2006, paved the way, and 2009 marked both the completion of the building works and the plantation of the first blocks of Muscat grapes.

 

Entrusted with directing operations is Raj Narayanan, R Ragu’s son. A young man of quiet demeanour, Raj is an MBA graduate from an Australian university. Easy-going, he cherishes the tranquillity of the overwhelmingly agricultural Cumbum Valley. Winemaking is aided by Frederic Dezauier, a French consultant. His best efforts helped create Misty Grapes and Red Sea, the two brands dominating the market in Tamil Nadu. They account for 95 per cent of the total volume of wine sold in the state. Quality is far below any international benchmark, and Ragu and son need to elevate it substantially to survive competition if and when the Tamil Nadu government liberalises the wine sector.


THE ESTATE

Cumbum Valley Winery in Theni district, 30 kilometres east of the Kerala border in the eponymous fertile valley of south-west Tamil Nadu, is at a latitude of 9˚44’, in line with the northernmost tip of Sri Lanka. Ranges of the Western Ghats surround the valley, so travellers are best advised to fly to Madurai before continuing their journey by road. The almost three-hour drive of about 140 kilometres is very scenic; a beautiful subtropical landscape with lush green forests broken by paddies while palm trees line the route.

 

Though Cumbum Valley Winery owns 400 acres of land on red loamy soil, vine is planted only on 70. Here, grape growing is a continuous business through the year, with no dormant period. With just 110 days for the full growth cycle, from pruning the vines after harvest to picking ripe grapes again, Cumbum Valley Winery has three harvests a year. This effectively triples the useful vineyard acreage as far as yield is concerned. On the rest of their land the family grows export-quality bananas, which are sold through agents. In addition to estate-grown grapes, the winery has contracts with 150 farmers, who grow grapes on close to 2,500 acres. These are not strategies suited to quality and cost control, but the winery’s licence is conditional and granted by the Tamil Nadu government, which is keen to generate employment.

 

The principal grape variety is Muscat. It has been grown in the area for 25 years, so farmers understand it. The winery has three acres of experimental Shiraz plantation, but claim it is climatically challenging as it does not like temperatures dropping to 14–17˚ C. With the Rhone in mind, I would take that with a pinch of salt. Cabernet Sauvignon is the new kid on the block and the horticultural department provides technical help to study the suitability of the variety. Early signs show that neither the Cabernet Sauvignon nor the Shiraz like the rich red soil, which is apparently the reason why the skin remains insufficiently thin. Bangalore Blue, a non-vinifera, is grown too, but silence surrounds the extent of its use.

 

The vines are trained on pandal-style trellis (pergola), which in practical terms is a pergola. Though it helps to aerate the canopy and keep the hanging bunches dry, it certainly does not allow for shoot thinning to regulate yield. Claims are that the vineyards use no chemical pesticide or insecticide, but biochemical products are used for fertilisation. The biggest challenge is bacterial infection, which tends to form a white coating on the leaf during the winter period. The annual rainfall (834 millimetres) is distributed fairly evenly, with more in April and May and between September and November, leaving the period from June to August drizzly and hazy. The drier season is from December to March. As such, grape-growing depends on flood irrigation, seven days a week in the winter season and three days a week during the rest of the year.

 

With eight tons per acre, yields are high. The only exception is in winter, when the yield dips to five tons due to disease. The ripeness level fluctuates according to the season: 15–18 Brix in September, 20 Brix in December and 28–30 Brix for grapes picked in May. After crushing, the fermentation follows the standard pattern of white-wine making with the use of commercial yeasts and enzymes. It takes ten days to ferment to bone dry. In an effort to preserve flavours and achieve stability and clarity, the fermentation temperature is kept at 10–19˚ C, then the yeast is removed and both Kieselguhr and sheet filtrations are applied.

 

Instead of immediate bottling, the wine destined to become Misty Grape spends 12 months in French oak barrels. The barriques are used from year to year without being replaced, so their impact translates into excessive oxidation and microbiological spoilage at best. The rest of the wine is used for the winery’s Red Sea brand. It is fortified to 16 per cent alcoholic strength and sweetened with the addition of 40 grams of slightly caramelised cane sugar per litre.

 

90 per cent of the production is sold in 180-millilitre bottles and without any recognition of the vintage, a proof of most customer’s limited disposable income and wine knowledge. Surprisingly, the fortified wine retails 30 per cent cheaper than the still despite the added cost of the spirit and sugar. It needs to be noted that 60 per cent of the retail price comprises tax, which goes into the Tamil Nadu government’s coffers. Winemaking is not a lucrative business by any means.


THE LABELS

Misty Grapes: a barrel-aged Muscat with plenty of oxidation and a murky garnet colour

Red Sea:
an unoaked, sweetened and fortified wine with excessive oxidation and murky garnet colour

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