Monday, 18th August 2025

Somewhere between Karnataka’s rugged landscape and Maharashtra’s southern vineyards, a stop in Bijapur reveals an unexpected story. What used to be a neglected facility in its Hampi Heritage Vineyards days is now an organised and purposeful winery, playing a key role in Fratelli’s Karnataka strategy. But beyond this satisfying transformation lies a more intriguing question: in India’s fragmented wine market, does place of origin matter as much as style? A tasting of 16 nicely polished wines suggests that consistency and value may matter more at mid-range price point at least.

My last visit to this facility was in late 2014, when I was researching the first edition of my book, and it left a lasting impression for all the wrong reasons. A decade under Fratelli’s lease has transformed the winery. I was glad to find it fully operational, with personnel busy with pre-bottling procedures and labelling while a truck was loaded with finished goods.

Because India’s wine trade is fragmented state by state by excise rules, taxes and distribution regimes, it makes financial sense for larger producers to maintain winemaking facilities in more than one region. Each unit primarily serves the market in which it operates, helping to reduce the cost and complexity of interstate duties. Wine lovers may wonder what becomes of the concept of terroir when the same label is made in different places.

There are, undeniably, differences between wines sold under one label but produced from grapes grown hundreds of kilometres apart. In practice, however, these wines are usually designed to express a house style rather than terroir – a sense of place –, and highly skilled winemaking teams work to maintain consistency regardless of in which state they are made. That may place them closer to brands than to terroir wines, but there is nothing inherently wrong with that if the market exists for it.

Consumers who are interested in provenance can still distinguish between wines produced in, say, Maharashtra and Karnataka from the labelling. Even so, that distinction is likely to matter more in export markets, as the rationale for maintaining different production units within India is primarily fiscal. In practice, wines made in a given state are often primarily intended for sale within that same state, leaving foreign importers to choose one state bottling or another. I doubt many overseas buyers know India’s wine regions well enough for that distinction to drive their decisions.

The winemaking facilities are equipped with 35 tanks, with a total capacity of 5,575 hl. This allows Fratelli to crush approximately 400 to 500 tonnes of grapes a year, all sourced from contracted growers in the Bijapur area. While all tanks are temperature controlled and the sparkling wine room is heavily insulated, the on-site laboratory is limited to basic analysis, including sugar, pH, alcohol, microbiological stability and bottle stability. More advanced analytical work is handled at the Akluj headquarters.

A tasting of 16 wines allowed me to assess the portfolio made for Karnataka consumers. The prevailing theme was one of pure, ripe fruit, giving the range an immediately appealing character. I was told that Thompson Seedless, a table grape, is brought in from Nashik for use in the Classic Chenin Blanc, Shiraz Rosé and the sweet sparkling Noi. The other variety transported from farther afield is Chenin Blanc, which comes from the Bangalore area.

Stylistically, the Chenin Blanc showed a mineral edge with ripe guava and lime notes. The Sauvignon Blanc was grassy, while the Chardonnay, too, leaned towards a ripe, mineral profile. The Gran Cuvée Brut had a soft, elegant mousse, though the flavours tapered away a little too quickly. That was perhaps unsurprising, as I was told that no reserve wine is used and that it spends only three to four months on lees before disgorgement. As for the reds, Pinot Noir is a recent addition: pleasantly fruity, though still rather simple. The single varietal Cabernet Sauvignon was decent and when blended with Shiraz for the M/S label it demonstrated the value of blending. The M/S Red showed ripe dark fruits, a greenish tinge as well as soft, well-integrated tannins. Both the Merlot and the Sangiovese were good, if slightly firm in tannin. The Cabernet Franc–Shiraz blend was deep, juicy, supple and attractively spicy.

Overall, I was impressed by the value for money at this level of quality. Encouragingly, the pharmaceutical smell and green tones that once marked many Indian reds were absent, bar one Shiraz. For years, that combination of odd aromas and flavours used to characterise a good number of Indian reds; the Bijapur selection suggested that the problem has largely been addressed.

As dusk fell, our car rolled out of the winery yard, still busy with dispatch trucks being loaded for the night run. Transporting wine overnight helps reduce heat exposure without the expense of refrigerated containers. We were back on the road for the remaining half of the journey to Fratelli’s main winery in Akluj. To the delight of Tally, my photographer, we stopped briefly for a bite and a cup of strong, exceedingly sweet tea at one of the roadside fast-food stalls. We eventually arrived just after 10 pm. After a light dinner, we happily settled into our comfortable abode for a good night’s rest.