Saturday, 16th August 2025

In the heart of Madhya Pradesh, a single day unfolded like a quiet revelation – the warmth of camaraderie with villagers over morning tea, the pride of farmers boosted by the vinous innovation of the new generation and the whispered stories of palace corridors. Flavours, friendships and histories intertwine in this deeply human story from the heart of India.

Jitendra’s car pulled up on the forecourt of the hotel. We loaded our luggage in the boot, and he walked over to the eatery. Rather than fetching tea, he greeted a group of men – just about old enough to be his father’s age – on the terrace, who soon crossed to the parking lot and gathered around our car. I soon learnt they were all members of the co-operative promoting Ambi Vineyards. Although language was a barrier, Jitendra’s interpretation enabled the unfolding of a heartfelt conversation and swift exchange of ideas. This group of farmers, in their sixties and seventies I estimated, were both excited and proud to share the journey on which Rajesh and Jitendra had taken them over the years: from onions and tomatoes to grape growing, nearly going bust in 2017, to achieving the creation of modern new facilities in 2025. Feeling such a sense of community and shared purpose was truly humbling. As we departed for Indore, I reflected on life’s big questions: the significance of effective leadership in communities, the invigorating energy of shared enterprise, and the power of innovation to transform lives.

The rest of the day had further new and memorable experiences in store for us. Upon arriving in town, we drove off the main road into a green residential neighbourhood and met Jitendra’s wife and two children. They were staying at his in-laws for the long weekend. We were treated to a delicious home-cooked vegetarian breakfast and a cup of tea before Prem, Jitendra’s close friend, arrived. He volunteered to be our tour guide and host for the rest of the day.

After taking farewell from Jitendra’s family, we headed into town. Our first stop was at a café at my request, as I was longing for a robust cup of coffee to revive me. A quick shave was also successfully squeezed in before we proceeded to Rajwada, the historic palace at the heart of Indore. Prem had rung the chief of the police, announced our visit and requested that he be allowed to park right in front of the palace. So, when we pulled up in front of the five-story yellow and grey building dotted with relatively small, neatly arched windows; a police escort greeted and shepherded us slowly to the entrance of the palace. The Rajwada being the most frequented tourist attraction in Indore, the short walk from the palm tree lined square to the entrance was full of tourists, so having the chief of police to lead the way for me felt distinctly as VIP treatment and grabbed the attention of all visitors around me.

The Holkar family’s former seat is a magnificent reminder of the architectural grandeur of the Maratha Empire from about two centuries ago. I was very impressed to learn of the progressive agenda of Ahilyabai Holkar, the 18th-century matriarch of the family. She had commissioned the construction of civil engineering projects, temples and schools; and had created endowments for women, so they would not have to be financially reliant on the male members of their families. Inside, the palace floors are arranged around a central courtyard, featuring a pond and fountain at ground level. The small windows likely serve to keep out the summer heat and ensure privacy. Marble staircases, unconnected by stone or tile, enhance airflow throughout the building. Display cabinets present archaeological artefacts, from prehistoric implements evidencing early civilisation to more recent objects of royal splendour.

Following the tour of the palace, we drove to 56 street for lunch. The naming of the street had an American ring to it, but in fact it comes from the 56 food stalls situated in the street. A street food heaven. We indulged in a variety of delicious Indian street food, all appetising and freshly off the flame. Only one puri made me concerned about Delhi belly, so I asked Prem for a pit stop and I picked up a small bottle of vodka, using strong alcohol for sanitisation purposes.

Before reaching the airport for our flight to Hyderabad, we paid a visit to one of Prem’s wine shops, as he runs four outlets of the Ambi retail franchise. It was enlightening to discover the commercial realities of wine trading in Madhya Pradesh, a region where viticulture is still emerging. I remain optimistic that, with continued perseverance, Ambi will help shape the future of wine in this inland state.