Friday, 15th August 2025

From a lightening strike triggered blackout to sparkling coolers and sweet reds; Ambi Vineyards is shaping Madhya Pradesh’s wine scene with bold flavours and big ambitions. Can its innovative promoters increase the number of new drinkers and turn them into devoted wine lovers?

The journey to Ratlam is approximately 130 kilometres and took just under three hours by car. After checking into the hotel and refreshing with a hot shower, I took a brief tour of Ambi’s vineyards, inspecting the exterior of the old winery and visiting the impressive, newly built winemaking and wine tourism facility a few minutes down the road. I then tasted the entire range of Ambi’s wines, at times nearly in total darkness, illuminated only by my computer screen, as the lingering monsoon’s downpour and storm caused a blackout, most likely a lightning strike had hit an electric substation.

I began with the varietal wines: Chenin Blanc, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Tempranillo. All are produced in a sweet style, naturally retaining residual sugar to suit the palate of rural Indian consumers in Madhya Pradesh. The sweetness is uniformly calibrated to 30 g/l, a level considered sweet by international standards. The Chenin Blanc is technically well-made, displaying good varietal character. The Shiraz rosé appeared tired in both aroma and flavour. This was unfortunate, as the ripe red fruits and attractive herbal tones, likely a result of high yields, could have added character.

The red wines presented a mixed picture. They showed appealing fruit and well-extracted tannins, with a balanced structure. However, most would have benefitted from greater attention to avoid excessive volatile acidity, a sharp, vinegar-like note. High yields and lax canopy management resulted in green, harsh tannins. With the new winery operational, Rajesh and co-proprietor Jitendra Patidar must now focus on consolidating quality control in both vineyard and cellar. Notably, in one wine, the volatile acidity contributed a character reminiscent of certain Italian styles, where it is often considered part of the wine’s identity.

Next, I sampled the sub-entry level wines: sparkling coolers and sweet wines. The team was hesitant to offer these, as I am not their target market. However, it would be misguided to ignore commercial realities. Wineries must secure healthy cash flow to survive. The carbonated and flavoured coolers are technically sound and pleasant within their category. Thompson Seedless provides the base wine, enabling economies of scale. If this encourages rural Indian consumers to explore wine as an alternative to hard liquor, this category may serve its purpose of converting new drinkers.

The sweet wines, produced in both white and red, are labelled as ‘port’, though neither their production method nor their origin justifies this designation. Regardless, these are intensely sweet wines, sometimes exhibiting unusual flavours: soapbox, cabbage, vanilla, or pungent black forest gateaux.

The key business challenge for Ambi Vineyards is to commercialise their wines in Madhya Pradesh and convert consumers from sub-entry level to varietal wines. This is no small feat, but Rajesh and Jitendra are well positioned to succeed, given their determination.

Their track record inspires confidence. The Madhya Pradesh state wine policy was established largely due to their advocacy for this new form of agricultural production. Similarly, their creation of a retail chain selling exclusively Ambi wines is a first not only for the state but for India. This innovation arose from the realisation that traditional “wine shops” were ill-suited to the sale of grape wines, lacking expertise in transport, storage, and marketing. The retail chain, operated on a franchise model, boasted 75 outlets in 2025.

The new winery will feature a landscaped garden, a bistro-style tasting room, and a restaurant overlooking the lawn. Travellers will be able to stop for a break and, if accompanied by a non-drinking driver, enjoy excellent food with a glass of wine—a prospect likely to prove irresistible.

I, for one, look forward to my next visit to see the finishing touches and to discover whether a stabilised operational environment will allow these pioneering partners to let the purity of their fruit shine even more brightly in their wines.