Blackbuck Vineyards
THE FACTS
THE STORY
Reddy’s expansive ancestral land is adjacent to the Jayamangali Blackbuck Reserve from which the winery derives its name. The swathe of meticulously designed vineyards, organised in cordon-trellised blocks, equals two-thirds of the reserve in terms of size. The government of Karnataka created the reserve post independence as a counter to the agricultural and other human settlements that were pushing into the traditional grassland habitats of the blackbuck, dangerously threatening their existence.
The winery is equipped with all the necessary machinery: a pneumatic press for gentle pressing, a cold stabilisation tank facilitating the clarity of the wines, and a mineral-water plant delivering pure, clean water. Despite the equipment and the post-bottling wet floor during my visit, there is a sense that the place has seen better days. It looked sad, worn and unloved.
Only a part of the fruit is crushed for Blackbuck, which I suspect has not bottled under its own label since 2012. The rest of the crop is either sold to Grover Zampa or vinified for labels such as Jouvin of Mandala Wine Brands or Golconda of Four Seasons.
THE ESTATE
A good three-hour journey in a north-westerly direction from Bangalore, Blackbuck Vineyards is accessible only by bumpy dirt tracks purporting to be roads. The landscape is an amazing prairie dotted with tiny villages, the lungi-clad men impressing upon the traveller the spirit of south India’s rural tradition. The bright, hospitable cellar master, Lalneo Vaiphei, is a young man originally from Nongbah in the north-eastern state of Meghalaya and takes care of operations all year round, while David Ciry, the French consultant, directs all winemaking during the harvest season.
Local farmer Radhe Krishna is tasked with tending the vineyards, which effectively leaves Lalneo working with a handful of day labourers in the winery only as and when needed. Winemaking in deep Karnataka is a lonely existence.
THE WINES
The Blackbuck range has three tiers: Classic, Reserve and Popular. Only the Classic labels were available to taste during my visit. All the wines were from the 2012 vintage and, with the exception of the Viognier, none surpassed sub-entry-level quality. They were probably never more than barely quaffable anyway. Even the higher alcohol and riper fruits could not sufficiently mask the unpleasant green and astringent mouth-feel. Lack of sales, forcing the wines to mature in bottle beyond recommended, did not help. It is disheartening that a massive vineyard with good potential is not being tapped for high-quality wines even though the winery has the capability.
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