A classification of Indian producers
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Wine
is a hugely passionate, emotional and, at times, extremely competitive
business. The product encapsulates a lot more than the basic technical
parameters easily measured in the laboratory. It is infused with the
aspirations and philosophies of the proprietor, the skills and experience of
the winemaker, and the spirit and soul of the domain. This diversity can often
be discouragingly confusing for consumers.
Classifications,
therefore, have been created to guide wine drinkers ever since the 17th
century, when the vineyards of Tokaj in Hungary became the first in the world
to be classified. The Indian wine industry may be young and producers
relatively small in number, but consumers nevertheless need a compass to
understand quality at a glance.
Two
classic methods of classification have developed over time. The Burgundy model
is primarily concerned with terroir, the focus being on vineyards and villages.
Here, it is the potential of a given site to produce great wines, with the soil
and microclimate playing the major roles. Throughout my journey in India I have
learned a great deal about the peculiarities of each region, many of their
villages and, in some cases, even single vineyards. However, there is a lot
more work required before we can reliably classify vineyards in India.
The
Bordeaux approach, created in 1855, is much more commercial in that it
classified the estates of the Médoc based on prices their wines achieved on the
market. The conditions of the contemporary Indian wine market do not facilitate
the application of this method. Government regulations and subsidies distort
market competition, and the number and size of the players make it an
oligopolistic market rather than a competitive one, and cause price
distortions. Additionally, it is impossible to rank wineries based on prices
because some producers of premium wines are also into the sub-entry-level cheap
segment of the market.
The Wines of India method of classification is based,
therefore, on a combination of factors.
Origin
and terroir
The
relevance of the concept of terroir in the creation of the wines of a given
producer and how well the wines reflect a sense of place; in other words, how
much does origin matter?
Intrinsic
wine quality
What
objectively quantifiable quality is the producer able to achieve. Being aware
that the term ‘objectivity’ may stir up a storm in the teacup, I define it
along the five parameters of balance, length, intensity, concentration and
complexity (for more, see pages X–Y
on wine quality and rating).
Quality
of the portfolio
Different
producers build their businesses differently, and so there is a wide diversity
in the quality levels of their wines. A producer focusing solely on premium
wines must be differentiated in the classification from those who make
mid-market wines too, or from those who cover the entire range from premium to
sub-entry level.
Reliability
of quality
The
taste of Indian wines is often different in the winery from that in a
restaurant or home, simply because the subtropical climate is detrimental to
wine quality. Producers manage their warehousing and distribution with varying
levels of success, which impacts on wine quality and must be taken into
account.
Stylistic
and philosophical integrity
Wine is the product most conducive to reflecting the stylistic choice and philosophy of its creator. As a critic, I strive to keep aside my personal preferences when judging how well a wine or winery does within a given church of thought and how this church sits in the current landscape. Ultimately, it the combination of such factors that contributes to how producers are classified.
The Wines of India classification, using a five-star system, is easy to understand besides being a reliable and relevant guide for the consumer, and will be revised with every new edition of the book. The producers are listed in alphabetical order under each class.
Five-star producers
***** Wineries that make outstanding and excellent quality wines in the premium segment. The grapes are all estate grown. There is a recognisable and constant house style across their wines. All products offer a reliable quality against other international benchmarks while retaining a sense of origin and an Indian character.
KRSMA
Estates (Hampi Hills, Karnataka)
SDU Winery (Bangalore and the South, Karnataka)
Four-star producers
****
Wineries with a wider and more diverse portfolio of products, who make some
outstanding and excellent wines in the premium segment as well as good,
reliable mid-market or even some sub-entry-level wines. There is a consistency
of style and quality across the different labels, with the premium wines
offering a sense of place and Indian origin, while the large-volume brands give
safety and reliability at the given quality level.
Alpine Wineries (Bangalore and the South, Karnataka)
Bangalore Soma Vineyards (Bangalore and the South, Karnataka)
Chandon India (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Charosa Winery (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Four Seasons (Pune, Maharashtra)
Fratelli Wines (Pune, Maharashtra)
Grover Zampa (Nashik & Bangalore)
Nine Hills (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Reveilo Winery (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Sula Vineyards (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Vallonné Vineyards (Nashik, Maharashtra)
York Winery (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Three-star producers
***
Wineries that focus mostly on mid-range wines and have entry or sub-entry-level
products too. All the wines are technically well made, and there is a good
degree of consistency and reliability. Some producers consciously service the
chosen market segments, others are either on the rise or the less fortunate are
going down. There is a degree of transience in this category.
Big
Banyan Wines (Goa)
Chateau d’Ori (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Deccan Plateau Vineyards (Pune, Maharashtra)
Fusion Wines (Mumbai brand)
Good Drop Wine Cellars (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Good Earth (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Indian Ambience (Bijapur and northern Karnataka)
Mandala Wines (Bangalore brand)
Mercury Wines (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Myra Wines (Bangalore brand)
Nisarga Vineyards (Bijapur and northern Karnataka)
Oakwood Winery (Pune, Maharashtra)
Soma Vine Village (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Soul Tree (London brand)
Turning Point (Mumbai brand)
Valle de Indies (Bangalore brand)
Two-star producers
** Wineries that produce modest and easy-entry or sub-entry-level wines of reliable technical quality most of the time, but often in styles palatable to the rural Indian consumer only. The dynamic and well-managed wineries will rise as the market develops and changes in India, the others will fall further to be forced out of business eventually.
Ambi
Vineyards (Ratlam, Madhya Pradesh)
Blackbuck Winery (Bangalore and the South, Karnataka)
Elite Vintage Winery (Bijapur and northern Karnataka)
Heritage Grape Winery (Bangalore and the South, Karnataka)
Indus Wines (Nashik, Maharashtra)
Tonia Liquor Industries (Goa)